Natalia Knits

My first For-sale pattern is now available!

Size: Women’s Medium
Yarn: 100gm Fingering weight sock yarn
Needles: Size 1, 2.25mm
Gauge: 8st/in

When I was looking to come up with a name for these socks, I kept looking for a graceful and elegant name. Unfortunately, the first thing that came to mind when I looked at the stitch patern was the rope ladders they hang from helicopters to rescue people from the ocean. The garter waves evoke the water, and the yarn over columns look to me like the ladders. So much for an elegant name, eh?

Buy this pattern as a PDF download
Price: $4

Also, if you are on Ravelry, check out their project page: Water Rescue Socks

Free sock pattern now available!

Size: Women’s Medium
Yarn: 100gm Fingering weight sock yarn
Needles: Size 1, 2.25mm
Gauge: 9st/in

I named this motif after the shapes that reminded me of urns or pottery bowls full of purls… Or pearls. I think it is best suited for nearly solid yarns, or hand dyed yarns with short segments of color.

Download this FREE pattern

If you are on Ravelry, check out their project page: Bowls of Pearls Socks

Most fingering-weight sock patterns are knit over somewhere between 60-72 stitches. Since mittens are not intended to fit as tightly as socks, I’ve found that the same size/gauge combination that produces a snugly-fitting sock also produces a comfortable-but-not-too loose mitten. And although I like knitting socks, I hate wearing them, so I had the idea to convert the sock patterns that catch my eye to mitten patterns.

I like to have a pair of gloves or mittens in the pockets of every coat, a spare pair at my office and in my car. I think it’s time to replace all of those pairs of “magic stretch” knit gloves from Target that are lurking all those coat pockets with pretty patterned hand-knit mittens.

Converting cuff-down socks to mittens recipe:

1. Cast on the number of stitches indicated in the pattern, one half of the stitches will be the back-of-the-hand side, and one half will be the palm side.
2. Begin working the fancy pattern on the back of the hand side, while working in 2×2 ribbing on the palm side. Work straight for 2 inches, or more if you prefer longer cuffs. The ribbing on the palm side draws in the fabric since most people’s wrists are smaller than their ankles. Note: if you have small wrists, cast on fewer stitches on the palm side, then increase up to the full suggested cast on-amount after you have completed the ribbing.
3. Continue to work the back of the hand in pattern, work palm side in stockinette for ½ in. The back-of-hand side of the mitten will be worked in pattern until step 8.
4. Measure around your thumb, and multiply that measurement by your stockinette gauge - if this number is odd, subtract one. This number is your “Thumb Stitches”.
5. Thumb Gussets: Instructions are for Right (Left) where there are no instructions in parenthesis, do the same for both. On the palm side: k1, place marker, k4, place marker, k to end of row (k to 5 st from end of row, place marker, k4, place marker, k1) Knit one round even, knit to first marker, k1, m1, k2, m1, k1, k to end of row, knit two rounds even. *k to first marker, k1, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, knit to end of row, knit two rounds even* Repeat between stars until the number of stitches between the markers equals your “Thumb Stitches”.
6. Try on the mitten, with the ribbing down on your wrist where it is most comfortable. If the knitting reaches the top of the webbing between your thumb and hand move on to step 7, otherwise, work even until it does.
7. Knit to first marker, place the stitches between the two markers on a holder, cast on 4 stitches, continue knitting across the end of the row. Knit even until when you try the mitten on, the work reaches just past the tip of the pinky finger.
8. Work the toe from the sock pattern to make the end of the mitten.
9. Retrieve the thumb stitches from the holder, then pick up 4 stitches from the cast on edge at the palm. (If you get holes at the corners, pick up a couple of extra stitches then decrease them away in the next couple of rounds) Work the thumb even until it is long enough for your thumb. Divide thumb stitches into front and back so the top seam will be parallel to your thumbnail. Begin decreasing : *k1, SSK, k to within 3 st of the end of one side of the thumb, k2tog, k1, repeat on other side of thumb, knit one full round even* repeat between stars until half your starting thumb stitches remain, kitchener thumb closed.

Converting toe-up socks to mittens recipe:

1. Work the toe from the sock pattern to make the end of the mitten.
2. Like in a sock, one half of the stitches will be the back-of-the-hand side, and one half will be the palm side. Begin fancy pattern on back-of-hand side, work palm side in stockinette until mitten is long enough to reach the webbing between the thumb and hand. (be generous with this length, otherwise the mitten will be too short when you curl your fingers) Work fancy pattern on back-of-hand side until the end of the cuff.
3. Measure around your thumb, and multiply that measurement by your stockinette gauge - if this number is odd, subtract one. This number is your “Thumb Stitches”.
4. Thumb Gussets: Instructions are for Right (Left) where there are no instructions in parenthesis, do the same for both. On the palm side: k to 5 st from end of row, place marker, place 4 stitches on a holder, provisionally cast on your “Thumb Stitches”, place marker, k1 (k1, place marker, place 4 stitches on a holder, provisionally cast on your “Thumb Stitches”, place marker, k to end of row) Knit one row even, *k to first marker, k1, SSK, k to 1 st before marker, k2tog, k1, knit to end of row, knit two rounds even* Repeat between stars until you have 4 stitches between the markers.
5. Knit even until when you try it on, the mitten reaches your wrist bone.
6. Continue back-of-hand side in pattern, work palm side in 2×2 ribbing until cuff is desired length. Note: if your wrists are small, decrease on palm side before beginning ribbing.
7. Cast off mitten cuff.
8. Pick up provisional stitches from the thumb gusset, retrieve 4 stitches from holder. (If you get holes at the corners, pick up a couple of extra stitches then decrease them away in the next couple of rounds) Work the thumb even until it is long enough for your thumb. Divide thumb stitches into front and back so the top seam will be parallel to your thumbnail. Begin decreasing : *K1, SSK, K to within 3 st of the end of one side of the thumb, K2tog, K1, repeat on other side of thumb, knit one full round even* repeat between stars until half of starting thumb stitches remain, kitchener thumb closed.

Since there now seem to be a handful of people doing the Jaywalker pattern toe-up, I am going to summarize the basic method for knitting them with the “you’re putting me on” heel and a short row toe. Please note, I am writing this from the point of view of knitting on two circulars or magic loop. If you knit on DPN’s, the “you’re putting me on” instructions talk about what happens on which needle.

Pattern is now updated for all 4 sizes!

References:
Jaywalker pattern - please note, Magnits is no longer available, but the pattern is currently available as a direct download on Ravelry
Jaywalker in extended sizes
Judy Gibson’s “You’re putting me on” heels

Toe
Using your prefered provisional method, cast on 32 (36, 38, 42) st. Using your prefered short-row method, short row down to 10 (10, 12, 12) stitches, and back up to 32 (36, 38, 42). Pick up your provisional cast on. Don’t forget to pick up a stitch at one of the sides to make up for the fact that you lose a stitch with the provisional cast on.

Foot
Set-up rows for foot: (Two original sizes)
Row 1: Knit plain all around.
Row 2: Knit plain on sole side, k-f/b, knit 30 (34), k-f/b on instep side
Row 3: Knit plain all around
Row 4: Knit plain on sole side, [k-f/b, knit 15 (17), k-f/b] twice on instep side

Set-up rows for foot: (Two larger sizes)
Row 1: Knit plain all around.
Row 2: Knit plain on sole side, [k-f/b, knit 17 (19), k-f/b] twice on instep side
Row 3: Knit plain all around
Row 4: Knit plain on sole side, [k-f/b, knit 19 (21), k-f/b] twice on instep side

You will now have 32 (36, 38, 42) stitches on the sole side needle, and 38 (42, 46, 50) on the instep needle. Begin knitting in pattern as written in the original pattern. Please see the “heel gussets” section of the original pattern for description of slipping the edge stitches on the sole needle.

Continue knitting until you are ready to begin your gusset increases. I wear a 7.5 shoe, and for me this is usually at 4.5 - 5 inches.

Gusset
For the next 4 (4, 5, 5) pattern repeats, on every other row, increase one at both sides of the sole. (You will have completed 8 (8, 10, 10) total rows, and will now have 40 (44, 48, 52) stitches on the sole) On the last plain round, put markers in your knitting one stitch in from either side, so you will have 38 (42, 46, 50) stitches in that middle section.

Continue working your gusset increases every other row until you have 16 (18, 19, 21) stitches on each side outside of your markers. (you will have a total of 70 (78, 84, 92) stitches on the sole side of your sock.)

If you usually knit a longer or shorter heel flap when you knit cuff-down socks, then adjust your gusset the same way.

Heel Extension
This is equivalent to the “heel turn” on a cuff-down sock.

Also please note that if you are knitting your socks two-at-a time, you will have to complete one entire heel, then the other.

On the sole side of the foot, knit to the first marker. For this section, we will only be knitting between the two markers.
Row 1: SSK, knit to marker, turn.
Row 2: P2tog, purl to marker, turn.

Repeat these two rows, until you have about 8 (10, 10, 12) stitches remaining The right side should be facing.

Heel Flap
Slip the first stitch, knit across, then pick up 15 (16, 18, 19) stitches down the edge of your heel extension. Turn. Slip the first stitch, purl across, then pick up 15 (16, 18, 19) stitches down the other side of your heel extension. Turn. You now have 38 (42, 46, 50) stitches between your needles again.

Row 1: Slip the first stitch, (Knit 1, Slip 1) to one stich before the next marker. SSK the following stitch and the first stitch after the marker. Replace the marker after the just completed stitch. Turn.
Row 2: Slip the first stitch, purl to one stich before the next marker. P2tog the following stitch and the first stitch after the marker. Replace the marker after the just completed stitch. Turn.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until you have used all of your gusset stitches. You will be left with 38 (42, 46, 50) stitches on your needle. (After the first few rows, the edges of the heel flap are obvious, and you can get rid of the markers entirely.)

Leg
Resume knitting circularly, continuing the pattern on the front of the sock. On the next pattern row, begin the pattern on the back of the sock as well.

Knit leg to desired length, then finish with 1 inch of 2×2 ribbing